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Thread: CDTi 150 Swirl Bar

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up CDTi 150 Swirl Bar

    Hey all!

    Just hought I'd post about my missus' car. The Vectra CDTi 150 SRi is a 56 reg with 127k miles on it now. Have confirmed it is on it's ORIGINAL inlet manifold, as the first (previous) owner never had it changed. About 9 months ago, I found the swirl bar off, and the flaps were stuck solid in the open position, so I left it for then. Leaving the swirl bar in the garage for fix at a later date.

    This morning, I used WD40, and a long socket extention to reach down to the valve's and move them rigorously, until they moved freely. Did this with 1, 2, and 4 - the third one moves when the engine is revved, so the motor has not seized. After about 10 mins, all valves moved extremely freely. I re-attached the swirl bar - not that difficult, just fiddley, then started her up.

    Result

    Much quieter immediatley. After a few revs, it was clear that the bar was moving all valves freely, as it should. Took it for a brisk drive to warm up, then a hard drive. Performance has been transformed and the car drives better than it ever has done. After a quick check, the bar is still attached. If it does fall off, I will do the £1 repair as detailed in this forum. But, after a 20 mile run this morning, all looks good still.

    I then cleaned and blanked off the EGR, unfortunately, this threw on the spanner light and the emissions light, so I drilled a 8mm hole in the blank then cleared the fault code. Job done. Lowdown rev performance has greater improved.

    Next, I sprayed a whole can of carb cleaner in through the air intake, again, as on this forum. The black smoke was HORRENDOUS while doing this, and EVEN MORE HORRENDOUS when I floored it afterwards to clear it out , I was getting flashed by everyone who passed!!. However, after a 5 mile drive, there's no smoke, and lots more power throughout the rev range, with more pull from about 1500rpm, rather than 2-2.5k rpm.

    So, for a morning's work, I may have revived an old manifold. As said, it's done 127k miles, and there is slight play on two of the valve bearings. Going to keep an eye on this, but looks promising.

    So if anyone else is thinking of removing the inlet manifold to clean / replace, try this first. Cost me £3 for a can of carb cleaner, everything else was just my own time.

    I then reset the BC, and after yet another drive (about 5 miles), the consumption has improved too.
    Last edited by tony-1977; 17th July 2011 at 14:57.

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    Regular Member Derek Mc's Avatar
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    Excellent write up, thanks for that, at times we all fear the worst and throw money at these problems and you are testimony to the bit of grunt dirty fingers and find the "motorsport fix" method!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Mc View Post
    Excellent write up, thanks for that, at times we all fear the worst and throw money at these problems and you are testimony to the bit of grunt dirty fingers and find the "motorsport fix" method!
    I was going to treat it to a new malifold, but having done the clutch and DMF in April, and the alternator went last month, the timing belt (and water pump) is due in 10k miles, funds were tight. So decided to have a go and fix this one.

    Nothing to lose

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    Regular Member chrisvectra's Avatar
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    well let us no how it goes fella

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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisvectra View Post
    well let us no how it goes fella
    Will do mate

    The bar seemed to click into place when I pushed it on, so seems promising. Will check every few days in case it falls off.

    Main issue was freeing the flaps. They took some moving!! But were free when I'd finished, only took about 10 mins to free 1 2 and 4, so they moved with a gentle touch.

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    Regular Member chrisvectra's Avatar
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    saves on a new manifold fella see how it goes fingers crossed for ya

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    As long as the flaps are free to move the bar should remain in place, this seems to be the cause of it popping off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Mc View Post
    As long as the flaps are free to move the bar should remain in place, this seems to be the cause of it popping off.
    Also,what about giving the manifold a good spraying with some carb cleaner,in through the throttle body valve opening,whilst the engine is stopped,and leaving it to soak/do its stuff etc,then giving it a good blast down the road.Could you get away with this without causing any problems?????. FELIXX.

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    Quote Originally Posted by felixx View Post
    Also,what about giving the manifold a good spraying with some carb cleaner,in through the throttle body valve opening,whilst the engine is stopped,and leaving it to soak/do its stuff etc,then giving it a good blast down the road.Could you get away with this without causing any problems?????. FELIXX.
    Have just posted an answer to that a little further up the forum I did it last week. really changed the car and improved fuel economy, had a full service 4 weeks ago fuel economy didnt improve, cleaned the inlet and its gone from 42 mpg to 49 mpg according to the onboard computer which is well worth the £5 I spent on the can of spray.

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142526

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    Quote Originally Posted by felixx View Post
    Also,what about giving the manifold a good spraying with some carb cleaner,in through the throttle body valve opening,whilst the engine is stopped,and leaving it to soak/do its stuff etc,then giving it a good blast down the road.Could you get away with this without causing any problems?????. FELIXX.
    Never thought of that one

    Job for Thursday when I'm next off. Did notice that the throttle body valve was rather black but didn't look too bad. WIll post up results when I get a chance to

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